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» Trap Line Community Bulletin Board » Trap Line Archives » Traps & Equipment Archives » Trap Pan Tension

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Author Topic: Trap Pan Tension
BryceH
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I havent ever used foothold yet and i bought a couple and also the sullivan trap pan tester but i dont know how many pounds of tension each animal need so if some could for example give me a table like this Raccoon- 2pounds which is just an example i dont really know what tenison a coon needs but the animals i am trapping are coon fox and muskrat
Posts: 28 | From: Ohio | Registered: Mar 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
StemCell
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BryceH, first and foremost I reccomend you cruise the archives sections-you will find nearly all of the knowledge to accelerate your success in trapping therein. Read them all and then re-read the posts that pertain to your most pressing questions again. The execution of the resultant knowledge is then the proving grounds.

Rule of thumbs on pan tension:

Fox 2 lbs

Raccoon, Mink, Muskrat - set the pan to free fall with no side to side play when unset. You may want to test the individual traps again when set to ensure against excessive tension under load. A mink or muskrat will only exert minimal force on a pan, usually less than a pound.

Posts: 53 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Sep 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ric
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General land trapping Coyote sized aminals and smaller ~2lbs,Small water animals use a free falling but not sloppy pan.Beaver/otter ~4lbs.

Remember your trap adjustment...

If I had the choice between setting....

1)a trap with 2lbs of tension and a long creepy pan drop

or

2)a trap with 4lbs of tension and a short clean
pan drop

for a fox I'd take the trap with the heavy tension

Posts: 3429 | From: Wellington,OH=USA | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
animalpest
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Depends on the situation. For fox, 2lb. For larger canines, 4lb

I differ from Ric as foxes I usually target are on sandy country (bit like beach sand) so a lighter creepy trap can be an advantage as it moves naturally. A heavy-set trap with no creep can be a big disadvantage in this case.
Mike

Posts: 197 | From: Western Australia | Registered: Aug 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pa.CoonTrapper
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I prefer no pan tension for red fox. By no pan tension, I mean that the pan can just about fall on its own weight when the trap is not set. I also set the trap on a hair trigger. Once the trap is set, bedded and covered the amount of tension on the dog from the springs is what I consider to be just about perfect for trapping fox. If I had to take a guess I would take on average my traps will take 1/2lb or so in order to fire. But again I think pan tension is highly overrated and there are much more important things to concern yourself with.

Dan

Posts: 101 | From: Pa | Registered: Aug 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Hal
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For fox, you'll want about 2 lbs of pan tension and 2 lbs of tension would be okay for coon too. You won't need to worry about pan tension on a muskrat trap.

With 2 pounds of tension on a fox trap, you will accomplish at least two things. First, you will avoid having small non-target critters fire your trap. Of course it is always desirable to limit your catch of non-target animals, furthermore if your trap is holding a non-target animal it won't be available for fox.

Secondly, using a proper amount of pan tension keeps your traps from firing prematurely. The animal's foot must be more well centered on the pan, and its weight more committed to a downward pressure and motion when the trap fires. This helps to reduce insecure holds by the trap, especially toe catches.

Now, I am curious to know why, in yielding these advantages, pan tension might be overrated. Or conversely, how no pan tension yields superior performance? [Confused]

[Smile] -- Hal

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NEbowhunter
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Pest,

I'd like to hear more on how it could be better to have creep in your pan than not to? i must be missing something.

Posts: 574 | From: Holdrege, Nebraska | Registered: Apr 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pa.CoonTrapper
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Hal, I like my traps to fire as soon as the foxs' paw hits the pan because it eliminates the need for the paw to be more "centered" on the pan in order to fire. I rarely get pattern misses, snapped traps or toe catches. Even if the fox happens to snap my trap with just a single toe on the pan, the jaws are plenty wide enough to secure a good pad catch. As for non-targets, I supposed if I had a big problem with them my methods would slightly differ. I can count on 2 hands how many rabbits/squirrels (non-target animals) ive caught in the past 2 seasons and when compared to the few hundred coon and about 2k fox in that time I think that is acceptable. I didn't mean to stir anything up, I just gave an opinion of what I believe to be true.
Posts: 101 | From: Pa | Registered: Aug 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
NEbowhunter
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Wow! 2000 fox in the last 2 seasons. thats impressive.
i guess my argument on pan tension is about 180 degrees of what you just said. i don't want the trap to fire unless there is a good portion of the foot on the pan. also the "no creep" in my pan doesn't allow the animal to feel movement under his foot and spook from it. (similiar to what coon trapper is talking about) i want my pan adjusted so it rides flat down below the jaws so the foot is a good ways into the trap and mostly on the pan when it fires. I also want the canine committed to stepping down with the foot and not just feeling around with his paw and tripping the trap.
i think if you set it hair trigger (light pan tension) and fox steps just right beside the pan and the trap goes off, i would sure think that you would get some marginal holds, unless you are using some bigger traps.......but i don't have a ton of fox to work with down here so canine refers more to coyote than fox to me. and i sure don't compete with 1000 fox per year and doing it as a student to boot. thats pretty good.

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NEbowhunter
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If my previous post seemed to contain sarcasm, it was not meant to do so. In rereading it, i still don't see it, but my apologies if it was taken out of context.
Posts: 574 | From: Holdrege, Nebraska | Registered: Apr 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pa.CoonTrapper
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I gave my opinion and you all take take it or leave it. It's not better than anyone elses. I will not address any personal attacks as this is Hal's forum and I will not turn this into a wizzing match. The people that are close minded enough to pay no attention to the opinions and ideas of others will never become better trappers.
Dan

Posts: 101 | From: Pa | Registered: Aug 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Hal
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[Smile]

[Smile] -- Hal

Posts: 8898 | From: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
animalpest
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As I said, I like some creep on some of my traps when they are set in deep sand. The reason is because sand moves underfoot. If I set the pan so it is hard, then the fox will feel it is different compared to everything else. I still use 2lb tension, but it feels the same with some creep as the surrounding soil and the pan has about the same amount of movement as his last step on the sand.

In heavier soil, I nightlatch, or short latch my traps with the same 2lb.
Mike

Posts: 197 | From: Western Australia | Registered: Aug 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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