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» Trap Line Community Bulletin Board » Trap Line Archives » Fur Handling Archives » Sizes for belly wedges

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Author Topic: Sizes for belly wedges
Fox fanatic
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Im going to order some stretcher patterns from the supply line and was wondering do they include deminsions for wedges? If not, what size should i make them?
Posts: 27 | From: putnam county, wv | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Hal
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Make them about 4 feet long. Taper them from about 1/2" to 1-1/2"

Hal

Posts: 8936 | From: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Martin
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You might consider buying wedge(s) to use as a pattern or borrow one from your local fur buyer.

I made a lot of them this summer from scrap that was set out in "give away" piles at a local cabinet shop. A lot of the material was even already cut in a taper.

An old time mink trapper in LA I know used short segments of river cane (bamboo)for wedges.

Posts: 10 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Mar 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Fox fanatic
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Hal, are those for all animals, or just fox and coon sized critters? I thought of buying one wedge to use for a pattern but so far i can only find wedges in lots of a half-dozen to one dozen(except mink). Anybody know a site that sells single wedges? I really prefer to make my own though. thanks again for the info guys
Posts: 27 | From: putnam county, wv | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ldsoldier
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All of my boards are made from Hal's patterns. I haven't done anything fur-out yet, so I can't speak for that, but for everything I've done fur in so far I've just taken a 1"X1" board/stick, sanded it down real smooth, and slid it in there. Big coons you might want to slide two in, but this has worked well for me. The only pelts I had that graded badly last year were due to mistakes made in the skinning process, not boarding. Hope this helps.
Posts: 915 | From: Raleigh, NC | Registered: Dec 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Hal
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Look, this ain't rocket science!! Pretty near anything will do for a belly wedge. Some folks even use dowel sticks, but a tapered wedge extracts a little easier.

The width of the wedge is of little consequence. I have some made out of wood lath that's 3/8" thick and some made out of regular old 3/4" lumber. Most of them are about 1/2" thick because they are made from the scrap left over when the stretchers are made.

A tapered wedge is a little easier to pull out when the pelt is dry. Again, most of mine are approximately 1/2" wide on the narrow end and 1-1/2" on the wide end, and 48" long. But this is not critical. They could be 3/4" X 1" and still work just as well, as long as they have some description of taper to them. And you don't need 48" for coons, fox, and the like. 40" would be plenty.

You don't need a pattern! Just get a length of wood that is square on one side. Measure one end to be 1/2" and the other to be 1" to 1-1/2". Use a straight edge to make a line between your marks, and saw out the wedge. When you are done, you might want to round off edge on one side of the wedge so it slides under the fur easier, and round off the nose for the same reason, so the sharp corners don't catch in the fur.

Hal

Posts: 8936 | From: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ric
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If you need a pattern to make a wedge you really shouldn't be fussing with power tools [Wink] .The reason retailers have different size wedges is because the low lifes that make the boards for them charge more for the longer ones.A 1/2" to 11/2" X 48" wedge will work for the vast majority of fur
Posts: 3438 | From: Wellington,OH=USA | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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